Ásbyrgi

Ásbyrgi is the one place in northeast Iceland where you walk into a forest. You drive for an hour across open moor and lava, turn a corner, and suddenly there are birch trees, a quiet pond and cliffs curving around you on three sides. It feels like someone moved it here from somewhere else.

Ásbyrgi (Asbyrgi) is a horseshoe-shaped canyon in the northern part of Vatnajökull National Park in North Iceland, about 3.5 km long and just over a kilometre wide, with cliffs as high as 100 metres at the inner end. Geologists say it was carved by huge glacial floods from Vatnajökull, at least twice, thousands of years ago. Norse legend has a better explanation: it's the hoofprint of Sleipnir, Odin's eight-legged horse, touching down on his way past.

What to see in Ásbyrgi

The easy walk goes through the woods to Botnstjörn, a small pond at the foot of the inner cliffs, with a viewing platform over the water. The rock island in the middle of the canyon, Eyjan, splits it into two arms; you can walk up onto it for a view down both sides. Fulmars nest on the cliff faces, so bring binoculars. Longer trails climb along the canyon rim, and the national park's visitor centre, Gljúfrastofa, at the entrance has maps and advice.

Best time to visit Ásbyrgi

Summer is the season here: June to August, when the birch leaves are out, the trails are dry and the visitor centre and campsite are busy but never crowded. In autumn the woods turn yellow and red, which is lovely and short-lived. Winter visits are possible when the roads allow, but the days are short.

Pro tip: go at the end of the day. The Diamond Circle tours and cruise buses come through at midday, but in the evening the canyon is often empty, the light goes gold on the cliffs, and the birds are the only noise.

How to get to Ásbyrgi

Ásbyrgi is on the Diamond Circle, just off Road 85 between Húsavík and Kópasker. From Húsavík it's about an hour; from Dettifoss, about 30 to 40 minutes north on Road 862. Most people self-drive here, and in winter the northern parts of Road 862 can be icy or closed, so check road.is. Plan an hour or two.

Tours that include Ásbyrgi are below, mostly Diamond Circle day trips from Akureyri, Mývatn and Húsavík, including private tours and cruise excursions.