The water in your pool was boiling not long ago. Krauma draws it from Deildartunguhver, Europe's most powerful hot spring, where it comes out of the ground at 100°C (212°F) before being brought down to something a human can sit in for an hour.

Because the spring flows so fast, the pools are constantly refilled with fresh water, so Krauma doesn't need to add chemicals to keep them clean. No chlorine smell, no stinging eyes. Deildartunguhver itself steams away in the farmland of Borgarfjörður in West Iceland, in full view of the restaurant.

What's at Krauma geothermal baths

Your admission covers the bathing area. Everyone gets their own locker in the changing room, and from there it's yours to wander between:

• Five natural geothermal baths
• A cold tub to get the blood moving between hot soaks
• A steam room
• An infrared room
• A relaxation room with a fireplace and quiet music

The order is up to you. Plenty of people go hot, cold, hot again, then end up by the fire wondering why they don't do this at home.

Food, drink and good to know

Krauma Restaurant cooks Icelandic food using fresh produce from local farms, with a view straight out over the hot spring. There's also a bar with drinks and snacks, which is a fine place to finish a day of driving. The restaurant and bar are open all year, with seating for 60 inside and another 50 on the terrace when the weather allows. Food and drinks are paid for separately from bath admission.

This is a self-guided visit rather than a tour, so you set the pace. The listed duration is about an hour, which is enough for a proper soak without turning into a prune.

Pro tip: Krauma pairs well with a West Iceland road trip. Do the baths first and eat afterwards, so you're not climbing into hot water on a full stomach.