Ten minutes out of the Old Harbour, the city shrinks behind you and everyone on deck goes quiet, scanning the water for a spout. That silence, then the shout from whoever sees it first, is the whole point of this trip.

Elding runs the original whale watching tour from Reykjavík, heading out into Faxaflói bay with naturalist guides on board. Humpback whales, minke whales, white-beaked dolphins and harbour porpoises are the species most commonly seen year-round. Orcas, fin whales and long-finned pilot whales turn up now and then. It is a wild-animal tour, so nothing is promised, and the crew follow a code of conduct that keeps every encounter on the animals' terms.

Whale watching in Reykjavík: how the tour runs

Check in at Elding's ticket office by the Old Harbour at least 15 minutes before departure. It is the double A-frame house by the pier; follow the red. Before you board, you can walk through Fífill, a converted fishing boat that houses Elding's wildlife exhibition, with real whale and dolphin skeletons, baleen plates, teeth and a bird display.

On the whale watching boat you choose between the outdoor viewing decks and a heated saloon with big windows. Your naturalist gives a safety briefing and commentary in English as you go. The whole trip lasts roughly 2 to 3.5 hours from boarding until you step back onto the pier, depending on what you find. In summer, keep an eye on the birds as well: puffins, northern gannets and arctic terns work the bay too.

What's included

• 2–3.5 hour whale watching tour
• Warm overalls and blankets to borrow
• Live commentary in English
• Free WiFi on board
• Entry to Elding's Wildlife Exhibition
• Heated indoor saloon with large viewing windows
• Wildlife guarantee: if you see no whales or dolphins, you get a free ticket for another day
• Photos taken by the crew, when possible

Hotel pickup costs extra, and drinks and snacks are sold on board. The tour depends on the weather, so the route can change or a trip can be cancelled at short notice.

Pro tip: Take the overalls even if you feel fine at the harbour, and bring a hat and gloves. The bay is a lot colder than the pier, and the best views are outside.